When you first get into leathercraft, it’s easy to feel lost in a sea of terms like full-grain, veg-tan, and splits. Picking the wrong type of leather can make your project harder to make, or not last as long as you’d hoped.

This guide will walk you through the main types of leather, how they’re tanned, and which ones are best for different projects, so you can choose confidently next time you shop.

Step 1: Know the Different Types of Leather by Cut

The “type” of leather often refers to how the hide is cut and finished:

• Full-Grain Leather – The highest quality, with the natural grain intact. Strong, durable, and develops a beautiful patina over time. Great for belts, bags, and heirloom pieces.

• Top-Grain Leather – Slightly sanded and finished for a more uniform look. Still strong, but softer and more stain-resistant than full-grain. Works well for bags, wallets, and upholstery.

• Split Leather / Suede – The inner layer of the hide, softer and fuzzier. Used for garments, lining, or casual shoes.

Step 2: Understand Leather Tanning Methods

How leather is tanned affects its feel, appearance, and what you can do with it:

• Vegetable-Tanned (Veg-Tan) – Tanned with plant-based tannins. Firm, moldable, and perfect for tooling, stamping, and carving. Ages beautifully but can be stiff at first. Great for belts, wallets, and structured bags.

• Chrome-Tanned – Tanned with chromium salts. Softer, more flexible, and available in a huge variety of colors. Not ideal for tooling but great for bags, garments, and upholstery.

• Combination-Tanned – A mix of veg-tan and chrome-tan methods, offering the structure of veg-tan with the softness of chrome-tan. Ideal for multi-purpose projects.

• Oil-Tanned – Typically chrome-tanned with added oils and waxes, making it supple and weather-resistant. Perfect for boots, outdoor gear, and rustic-style bags.

Step 3: Match the Leather to the Project

Here’s a quick guide to help you choose:

• Belts – Veg-tan or full-grain leather, 8–10 oz (thick and sturdy).

• Wallets – Veg-tan or top-grain, 3–4 oz for interiors, 4–5 oz for exteriors.

• Bags – Chrome-tan or combination-tan, 4–6 oz for a softer feel, 6–8 oz for structure.

• Shoes/Boots – Oil-tan or chrome-tan for flexibility and durability.

• Garments – Chrome-tan or suede for comfort and drape.

• Tooling/Carving Projects – Veg-tan only; 5–9 oz depending on the project.

Step 4: Think About Finish and Appearance

Even within the same tanning method, leathers can look and feel totally different:

• Aniline Finish – Minimal coating, keeps natural look but can stain easily.

• Semi-Aniline – Light coating for durability without losing too much natural character.

• Pigmented – Fully coated for color consistency and scratch resistance.

• Pull-Up – Waxed or oiled finish that changes color when flexed, giving a rugged look.

Step 5: Buy the Right Amount

Leather is usually sold by the hide, side, or in pre-cut pieces. For small projects like wallets or watch straps, pre-cuts are easier and cheaper. For larger projects like bags or belts, buying a side or double shoulder gives you more usable space.

The Bottom Line

Choosing the right leather isn’t about finding the “best” leather overall — it’s about finding the best leather for what you’re making.

• Tooling a belt? Go for firm, veg-tan leather.

• Sewing a slouchy bag? Pick a soft chrome-tan.

• Making a wallet? Choose something thin but sturdy, like top-grain or a lighter veg-tan.

Once you get a feel for different leathers, you’ll start to instinctively know which one fits your project best — and that’s when leathercraft really gets fun.