Noah Bayer, founder of BW Duffer Co., crafted the perfect gift using Tandy’s Watch Band Acrylic Template. Follow his detailed, step-by-step process so you can create your own custom and stylish watch bands.
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Instructions:
Step 1: Determine the size watch band you'll need with the closure you have and pair it with the acrylic template.
Step 2: Lay your template on a 5-6oz piece of leather ensuring you stay away from any unwanted watch characteristics on the leather.
- Maker Tip! Try cutting a piece of leather off your double shoulder or side to help this fit on your workshop table better
Step 3: Trace the outside of the template with an awl - be sure to mark any holes as well!
Step 4: Move your template off to either side slightly (about 1/8") and make small holes on the outside ONLY (not interior holes) with your awl to mark stitching locations.
Step 5: With a ruler and knife carefully begin cutting out any straight edges you can. In areas where they're not as straight take your time getting the shape right without pressing too hard into the leather. You can always follow back through so you get the perfect shape!
Step 6 (OPTIONAL): Cut out your watchband keeper by cutting out a 3/16" x 3 1/4" piece of 5-6oz leather.
- Maker Tip! You can skive this down to achieve a thinner keeper (you'll need to take off about 1/2" in length however).
Step 7: Bevel with a #2 Edge Beveler the inside and outside of your watch strap.
Step 8: Now punch out the holes you marked with your awl in the middle.
- Maker Tip! To make the oblong hole punch - use your #0 Round Drive Punch at either end of the oval and cut out the center for the perfect oblong cut.
Step 9 (OPTIONAL): Layer your two strap pieces on top of each other where the oblong hole and adjustment holes are. Take your keeper piece and wrap it tight around these two pieces then mark 1/4" past where they overlap, then cut the leather at the mark.
Step 10: Condition your leather now with Dr. Jackson's Pure Neatsfoot Oil. (Don't forget about your keeper!)
- Maker Tip! I always add an additional layer of oil after I dye my leather, but beware this will darken your leather and the color you dye with.
Step 11: Dye your leather with the color of your choice, I used Fiebing's Pro Dye Show Brown.
- Maker Tip! I do a 1:1 ratio of dye to thinner to make my dye lighter as I can always add more oil or dye to achieve the color I want.
Step 12: Burnish the edges of the watch strap you beveled earlier.
- Maker Tip! I recommend using a 400 grit sandpaper and wet sanding the edges before burnishing.
Step 13: Follow that process for the flesh side or "fuzzy side" of the watch straps
Step 14: Take your watch straps and place them flesh side up and mark 3/16" further down from where your stitching lines are on top to skive down this leather.
Step 15: Place the sharpened angle of the knife upwards and hold onto the leather as you push your knife down toward the end of the strap away from you. Skive this down to about 2oz or 1/32". Once you're happy move on to the next step!
- Maker Tip! Remember you can always come back and skive again so take a small amount off each pass!
Step 16 (OPTIONAL): Follow the steps above and skive both ends of the keeper on opposite sides of the leather (one on the flesh side and one on the grain side). Glue these together with a thin layer of glue and clamp these two pieces together until dry.
Step 17 (OPTIONAL): Take a 2-prong stitching chisel and punch a hole through the middle of the strap at the connections. Saddle stitch these holes together with about 10" of thread and pass through each 3 times.
Step 18: Take your watch straps on the skived ends and glue about 1/8" on either end of the strap.
Step 19: Push the end sections through the center of the spring bar of the watch connection ensuring that the top of the connection has a small bump in the middle be sure to put the grain side of the leather up with that piece. (It can be flipped later but it's easier to ensure it's correct now.)
Step 20: Follow the same for the buckle end placing the tongue of the buckle through the oblong hole you punched out earlier. Be sure to have it facing the correct direction before sealing with glue! (I would test it before gluing to ensure this is the case.)
Step 21: Glue the rest of the leather not touching the watch strap hardware and clamp together until dry.
- Maker Tip! Use clamps with leather between to prevent any unwanted scratches or indentions.
Step 22: Using a 4MM stitching chisel mark the center of the leather where you previously glued the leather together, then punch out the stitching holes.
Step 23: Cut a 16" piece of thread for each set of stitching holes and saddle stitch starting in the middle to ensure these leather pieces stay together. I also go over the edges of the strap for added security.
- Maker Tip! I recommend using a stitching pony to make this project easier.
Step 24: Go and win someone over with your custom strap!
BW Duffer Co.
My name is Noah Bayer and I’m the founder of BW Duffer Co.
I started BW Duffer Co. in 2023 when I finally decided it was time to pursue my dream of both making, and inspiring others to make. This started with my wallet, the “Mynet” which is an old English word meaning coin, money or mint. The wallet was designed to be extremely minimal and has a satisfying “squeeze to pop open” closure and, of course, loosely resembles a medieval coin purse, the origin of the wallet.
I’ve always deeply admired the designs and materials from the middle ages as well as the early industrial era. Back then they didn’t have plastic, so they relied heavily on metal, wood and leather (all three mediums I practice) and aimed toward making objects both strong and beautiful, so they could be cherished for lifetimes.
This is the aim of BW Duffer Co.
Instagram: @bwdufferco
